Will the EU’s Ban on Destroying Unsold Stock Actually Work?
Vogue · 2026-08-20
The EU has implemented a destruction ban on unsold stock, a regulation anticipated by brands given the array of existing circularity solutions. Unsold inventory stems from both internal planning errors and external factors like unpredictable weather or delayed shipments, diminishing value rapidly in short sales windows, as noted by Joanna Lambert of Opera Garment Solutions.
The ban introduces a complex regulatory landscape with potential exemptions, or "derogations," which require significant paperwork, intentionally making them burdensome for brands, according to Marina Prados Espínola, director of Policy Hub. While recycling is technically included under the definition of destruction, Espínola emphasizes its necessity in specific cases, advocating for its incentive to boost global recycling infrastructure. However, Andreas Dorner of Re&Up Recycling Technologies highlights the waste hierarchy, asserting that reselling and reusing products should always precede recycling to avoid reinforcing overproduction.
The effectiveness of the ban, which will extend to medium-sized brands in July 2030, remains uncertain. National authorities are responsible for compliance and penalties, but additional funding is unclear. Experts are divided on whether the ban will genuinely scale circularity or prompt brands to tackle overproduction. While some, like Aghemo, believe unsold stock is an unavoidable physiological problem that can only be reduced, others are more optimistic about the broader suite of circularity regulations and the potential for new, transparent supply chains.
*The full article also explores the specific challenges fashion brands face in implementing these new circularity measures.*